Thanks India and Akorn for the most awakening trip

India was so full of surprises. I confess to having set off with certain prejudices; I left anxious to return.

At one point the trip felt too sterile - I wasn't getting close enough to the heartbeat of the people. Then it dawned on me that the huge diversity of the country was shielding me from the truth. I was close to the people , the luxury I experienced was real life, the Maharaja's and Princes were real, their lifestyles were real, I was in the middle of a modern day living history. Versailles and Neuschwanstein are real but history.

Twenty-two languages in Rajasthan alone; the birth of 4 religions; (Hindu, Bhuddist, Jainism, Shikism); the controversial caste system, the 'double talk' and the bargaining - India became a game and a challenge.

It is possible to partake in their lifestyle. From royalty to heritage pidgeon racing, to bartering for a camel at The Pushkar Camel Fair. As a proud new owner of a camel - it is your choice as to where or to whom you donate it. ...and they are not that expensive ... just part of the fun while experiencing their lifestyle....

There's so much more to see and do - Sikkum and Bhutan are on my list for 2012 - Kerala, Pushkar Fair and Sri Lanka for 2013.

Would love to hear from fellow adventurers and of course there's also the rest of the world to explore.

The Aman Hotel - Delhi

Aman - in Sanskrit means peace - and in this tiny space of New Delhi there is indeed Peace. Robyn Bickford the new manager has kept that peace while kicking it up a notch with her joy and colorful additions - note the fresh flower rug. Rooms even have private plunge pools in the middle of the bustling city and to keep that peace there are no groups or weddings at the hotel. An amazing oasis.

Here we met the curator of Delhi's Musuem of Modern Art - Rajeev Lochan and wildlife photographer, Mike Pandey who had just returned from working with whale sharks off the Indian coast.

"Dhobhi Ghat'

Mumbai's outdoor laundry service used by many hotels and private homes.

A vodafone store where I needed to buy a Sim card for my phone.

More outdoor laundry areas


The ubiquitos Mumbai taxi

The Dabbawalas

5000, mostly illiterate, Dabbawalas or man with a lunch box collect 200,000 lunch boxes each day from private homes, deliver them to the workplace throughout Mumbai and return the lunch box (known as tiffin boxes) back to it's correct home all within a three hour period. ...and nothing is computerized, with no technical services and no cell phones. Their error rate is one transaction per 6 million. So impressed were Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles they even invited management to their wedding.

Well ...... we had to do some studying to understand just how the dabbawalas did this..

Oberoi Hotel Mumbai

An in room amenity plate.

View of The 'Queens Necklace' from one of the suites. -a.k.a. - the boardwalk of Mumbai.

Ready to take tea in the tea room?

I can see Elton John sitting here.

Or my youngest about to take the stage.

The most amazing lunch. Thank you Rashmi

Elephanta Caves

Once a hindu place of worship dating back to 5th C AD till the Portugese arrived in 1534 when they damaged the hands and faces of almost all the statues during target practice. Was there an ulterior motive? The Portugese left these islands in 1661 when Charles II of England married the King of Portugal's daughter. The islands as part of her dowry, created a corner of the British Empire.

Getting to Elephanta Caves - About a 90 minute boat ride from Mumbai

Followed by a short touristy train ride - then 120 steps...

Gateway to India buillt in 1920 to commemorate the visit of King Geroge V in 1911.

Bangle Bargaining

A Royal Feast

Please indulge me while I share with you the most amazing Indian meal.

I ate so much through out the whole trip - the food was delicious - yet I didn't put on one pound.

A Royal Palace Thali

Thali - the Indian equivalent of a degustation menu, offers much of the complete repertoirse of Rajastani specialities served on a gold platter.

......................................Shorba .....aromatized broth...........................

Tamatar Bhutte ka shorga

Mildly spiced tomato and corn soup enhanced with fresh cilantro

................................Choolhe se - from the wood fire..............................

Tandoori Prawns

Prawns steeped in classical tandoori marination and char grilled

Achari Gosht

A traditional delicacy of lamb cooked with pickling spices

Mathanis Laal Murg

Morsels of chicken cooked with tomatoes and red chilies from Mathania

Gulab Jamun ki subzi

A unique preparation of milk dumplings, charily steeped in yoghurt gravy.

Hara dana methi bail gatta curry

Soft gram flour and green fenugreek seed dumplings steeped in aromatic gravy of yoghurt.

Palak nagori methi masala

Emerald spinach and fresh fenugreek, redolent with garlic and tomato sauce .

Thikaris ki dal

Melange of split yellow lentils cooked in a traditional earthenware pot.

..................................Halwai se ..... Dessert..................................

Pista kulfi

Pistahio ice-cream served with saffron vermicelli

Kesaria rasmalai

Cottage cheese patty dipped in saffron flavoured milk

Jalebi - rabdi

Fried spiral pastry served with chilled reduced milk.

Mumbai - Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

Just two years ago India suffered her own 9/11 - referred to as 26/11 when the Taj Mahal Palace hotel was attacked . Today the hotel is replendant once again but with extra deluxe touches such as flat screen televisions within the bathroom mirror . I found my self watching CNN while drying my hair - Is that luxury? - In my book anything that saves time or can put me ahead of the game without wasting my time is a luxurious - So yes - a 'PIM' (Pic in Mirror) TV sure adds to the luxury of a stay at the Taj.

The fine old heritage facade of the hotel

The atrium of the heritage section

If I have one bete-noir when travelling it's searching for those subdued, ambiance enhancing fancy light switches in hotel rooms prior to turning in. Just give me one light switch that does the job and let it be by my bed. The last thing I want to be doing is playing a game of 'find-the-light-switch' hide and seek when I'm tired and just want to go to sleep.

This hotel has finally got it right - congratulations - The Taj Mahal Palace hotel caps the realm of luxury - one switch within easy reach, with other options close by and easy to understand. It's combining little touches that create the best form of luxury.

Oberoi Udaivilas

Oberoi Udaivilas - One of the most romantic spots that I have ever been to. No wonder the rich and famous flock here for proposals, weddings and honeymoons. None of my photos do justice to the place.

It was here that we were serenaded at sunset on a 125 year old Royal Barge where the twinkling city lights surrounded us.

It was also at this hotel that I was finally able to indulge myself with a private yoga class and an Ayurvedic treatment - (Ayurvedic meaning 'science of life' and yuj, Sanskrit for yoga meaning 'to join'). How could I be in India and not personally experience both? Ayurvedic is a system of traditional medicine practised in India, particularly in the south. Now it's all over the world, and here it was 'just' affordable! Amazing - I walked taller and lighter till the long flight home undid all the good.

Taj Lake Palace Hotel

We had dinner at Taj Lake Palace - One of the first palaces to be converted to a hotel. It sits in the middle of Lake Pichola in Udaipur.

Leela Palace Hotel

The ultimate in service and luxury .

Edible silver coated pistachios .

No sun allowed on pale skin.

View of the pool from one of the rooms

Arrival by boat as buses can't access the hotel via the old town as streets too narrow.

Indian Trivia

- Population, a billion people.

- 90% of mariages are arranged,,

- 15% of population is muslin, 2% christian .

- Antique Ambassador cars are a status symbol.First built back in 1957 on the British Morris Oxford III model - this car is still built today with few modifications.

- Local cooking fires burn on cow patties produced in the millions along the roadsides, and throughout the country - creates a dreadful smog.

- The new Nano car, India's equivalent to the SMart car made by Tato costs less than a tuc-tuc .

- There is no state religion .

- Bollywood produces movies in 35 different languages.

- British started the railway system in 1853, now the largest railways system in the world 1.6 million people work for the railways.

- Indians have a passion for movies and cricket.

- Look up to members of their cricket team as gods.

Dhanyavad - द्यान्यवाद - Thank You

My most gracious host and guide at Banjaar Tola - Gil and Payal. Their welcome may not have been officially royal but it sure felt it..........Gil and Payal you gave me memories to be treasured forever, not just of an amazing camp and the best tiger sighting ever, but of the warmth of your hospitality, caring and thoughtfulness - Thank you . Dhanyavad.

Shushil - raconteur numero uno - who lead his eclectic group through traffic jams, cracked his whip in Indiana Jones style and look, click-countered bags, while teaching us so much of his beloved India. A country indeed diverging from it's past.

Not just a guide , but as a Bollywood actor you can see Shushil in James Bond's, Octopussy; and his new movie soon to be released "No one killed Jessica"
and to my guide, Shailendra, from Bhopal - who waited so patiently for my long delayed flight at Jabalpur (3 hours) as the pilot aborted two attempts to land, refueled at the next closest airport, at Nagpur, returning for a third and final successful attempt. ..
The long hours of conversation during our car ride to and from Banjaar Tola - where the base of my Hindu language skills tried to take hold. Forma linge - सी यू अगेन सून.

(I still have the napkin where you outlined the best tour to include your home town of Bhopal)

At Jodphur, a splendid Royal Welcome awaits...both at airport and Umaid Bhawan Palace.

The Maharajah of Jodphur, His Highness Gaj Singhjii II - portrait done in inlaid wood.

Met at Jodphur airport in Royal style with an old Chevy

A royal banquet held in our honor at 'Baradari Lawns' at the Palace.

Left over hunting trophies of leopard and tiger dot the halls of Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel

More banquet pics...

The Maharajah of Jodphur - His Highness Gaj Singhjii II - Born 1948 came to the thrown when he was just 5 years old. He opened his home, palace and heart to us with an amazing dance performance and lavish evening buffet in the grounds of his Palace.

My bedroom - retro style

This beautiful stately palace - Newest of all Indians palaces built of interlocking sandstone without mortar or cement, started in 1929 completed in 1943. Probably our favourite hotel throughout the trip - The warmth, love and caring of this Palace is not to be missed.

Breakfast on the porch

My driver Lassman Singh

A young entertainer

The impressive entrance hall

My marble bathroom

The Dining room .