The 'Other' China Trivia

Beijing says, Yunnan face is dark, their face is light.
Yunnan says. Beijing lungs are dark, their lungs are light.

1380 kilmometer border between Yunnan and Tibet.
As the crow flies, just 250 miles from Lijiang to Myanmar

The Dongba chiefs are  intellectuals,  only 35 are left. There is a wonderful museum honoring their culture and knowledge.

Yunnan coffee grown in the south of the province is very good, made from an Arabic bean

Drivers call tolls, Highway Robbery.

The Yak is lovingly referred to as a hippier cow.

Young children are put out to play smoothered in  yak butter to help them adjust to extreme temperature changes. 

 

Who Knew that the endangered Red Panda I saw in China would be Google's widget for the day . They are giving it the high five as the Red Panda of the month of October..

Alas my photo is not as good as theirs.

The ancient Tea Horse trading of yesteryear could today be called the Caterpillar, Red Bull & Budweiser trade.

Tea portering ended when Mao came to power in 1949. The peasants loved Mao as he redistributed  the land and each got a parcel   The long treacherous  3 month route of carrying tea up to Tibet, returning with the small Tibetan Nangchen horses at only 4.5 ' high was no longer needed to maintain a home . The peasants could live off their own parcel of land. 

History shows that in  the 13th Century China  was trading millions of  pounds of tea for 25,000 horses a year.  The more tea the porters carried the more they got paid. 

The Tea Porters Lament
Seven steps up you have to rest,
Eight steps down you have to rest,
Eleven steps flat you have to rest,
You are stupid, if you don't rest. 

The black baked tea pots of Zhongdian ( Shangri-la)

 Compacted puer tea in it's purest form. I brought this home with me but it is such a beautifully packed cake of tea leaves I cannot bring myself to break into it. 

Today when visiting the area I'm told  the Yartsa Gompo caterpillar, called Chong cao in China , has replaced the horse. This caterpillar only lives above 10,000 ft above sea level and is sold within China as the cure all for the ravages of aging at a cost of $80 per gram and rather than drink tea there are plenty of cans of Red Bull and Budweiser. Maybe I should say, as well as drinking tea there are many signs of the love of Red Bull and Budweiser. 

.....and then the snow fell, all four feet of it on our temperate journey through Yunnan.....

We layered up with every piece of clothing we had with us. Warmed up besides  small coal fires, bought electric hand warmers and long-johns from the local markets, slept under electric blankets and wished we had this dogs coat. Then the sun came out. Snow covered Yunnan under a deep  blue sky  is something to behold.   

 

 

 

Some of the clothing of the minority tribes in Yunnan

Many of the villagers in Yunnan still wear their traditional clothing every day, but I'm no National Geographic photographer and no matter who I asked if I could take their photo I was turned down.  Either I don't have the communication skills required to persuade them or this Province is beginning to get too many foreign tourists eager to see this real corner of cultural pastures, pastimes and history where the locals are tired of being asked.
Nevertheless the main Han people  of China do  flock to this province for their vacations and timeshare units are everywhere, all built within the traditional cultural ways so that, yes there are a lot of buildings built within their cultural ways  but nothing resembling anything  one might have expected during the days of the cultural revolution. 

So.... I took some  photos of the clothing in the local markets, .......

The Baisha Naxi Embroidery Institute

Chinese embroidery has been around for thousands of years, sadly this was banned during the cultural revolution and is now making a slow come back.  An apprenticeship at this institute can take  10-15 years to complete and the resulting work is exquisite.  These young girls are encouraged to keep working on their skills with the promise of a good share of the profits from the sale of one piece, but in between each sale they survive on the basic shelter provided by the local government.   
The fine needlework using local silk threads looks for all the world as though it has been painted with ultra fine brush strokes. I wish my photos gave a better impression of the skill required to achieve such beauty

 

 

   

The wonderful friends one makes while traveling....

Preparing to join the early morning class of Tai Chi

So was this chicken neck skin afterall?

Myself  and Fransi ( from Surabaya)  at Leaping Tiger Gorge,

Food and Wine - Baijiu, potato pancake and Tibetan Hot Pot or I could say Pfumfli, rosti and fondu Chinoise

...so what came first? The Chinese version or the Swiss version?


It was in Chengdu when my host asked me if I would like some Chinese wine; yes came my reply eager to try all aspects of their food and wine. I was led by the hand  to see the different glass jars with their potions of herbs and weird looking additives till the last one when I could definitely distinguish a dead snake in the clear liquid. With 60-80% alcoholic volume I learnt this was the Chinese national drink called Baijiu and that Chinese women don't drink it.
This was moonshine with subtle flavor changes till one reached the most refined  when it slipped down so smoothly it reminded me of the finest Swiss eau-de-vie.
Then in the middle of Yunnan province came my next  cultural culinary surprise, a potato pancake  which was exactly the same as the best Swiss rosti and totally delicious.


More surprises were to come  up in Shangri-la where we were served a Tibetan hot pot.  The two  differences to the fondu Chinoise  that I loved so much during the years we lived in Switzerland was that the Chinese dunk spam into the pot and don't turn the stock into soup to be drunk at the end of the meal. 

 
  

When in China you gotta love the English translation

Yunnan, a botanical heaven

As a plant 'affectioni' , I've read  much about plantsmen who travel to China bringing back exotic new finds and always wondered where it is in China that they go, (I even have one of Dan Hinkley's rare finds in my own back yard, alas, I hate to admit that it's not doing too well.) but my trip to Yunnan to see 'THE OTHER CHINA' also opened my eyes to this botanical heaven that has given us so many of our well loved plants.
But it's not just the beauty of  the plants that was fascinating  but the advanced cross-over between plants and medicine  that is so prevalent.
Joseph Rock an Austrian American botanist spent many years in Yunnan based out of Lijiang  while working hand in hand with the Chinese Medicine man, Dr Ho who fondly remembers him.

 The early flowering Chinese plum who's perfume filled the air

 The yellow magnolia covered in snow when a rare snow storm came to visit while I was there. 

 Wild Yunnan Orange, I forget it's exact name - has an ugly skin but amazingly  sweet  and more cherry blossom trees.

     

The Dai people live in southern Yunnan Province, are Buddists and celebrate the start of the Chinese New Year with a 3 day water splashing festival.

1.5 million Dai live in Dehong and Xishuangbanna, have their own  Chinese form of handwriting, love music and dance, and  favor insects in their diet. The ethnic Dai people, also known as Tai  belong to a larger ethnic group across Myanmar, Laos, Thailand  and Vietnam.

The Mekong river starts in China, flows through Jinghong, forms the upper border between Myanmar and Laos, flowing south through Cambodia and Vietnam. 
 
  Xishuangbanna is also the home of  Pu erh Tea (the purest) which comes from ancient tea trees (I'm told some are as old as 1000 years). This is the tea favored by the Tibetans that started the Tea Horse route  Tea from this region would be carried by porters to Tibet where they would trade their tea for a horse. Legend has it that 25 lbs of tea bought one horse. Ganlanba Village houses about 300 families, and  hold their own market.  
The Wild Elephant Valley is also located here; the only place you can see China's wild  elephants.
and there's a Tropical Plant Research center.